Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Kuwait Mentalities

Dear Reader,

Back so soon, I know!  Something about being a normal working person, working an 8-5 job, and going to bed at 10:30 or 11, is making me so consistent in many spheres of my life, blogging apparently included.  I have a routine and I love it! How different from college (Dartmouth) life, which seems to simply be an eternal scramble to stay ahead.  The 10 week Dartmouth term is most certainly an exercise in attempting to make it through term before falling irreversably and detrimentally far behind.  I generally start to feel like I'm losing this battle around week 3, but have managed to make it through most terms without losing it entirely. We'll see if I can keep this trend going my senior year, inshallah. (<-- that's arabic for "god willing," which is basically used to mean "hopefully"). 

But if Dartmouth is a haven for hectic livelihoods, Kuwait is, by contrast, a refuge for those preferring to lead life at a slower pace, and by that I mean a normal one.  Unlike the States and many of the people in it, Kuwait and the people who live here (or at least those that I have had the privilege of encountering) are not driven primarily by the goals of efficiency and accomplishment, and only somewhat more distantly by that of life enjoyment.  Rather, there is a much larger emphasis here on spending time on activities and relationships, and enjoying that time spent.  The goal seems to be much less to get through as many things as possible, and much more to delve as deeply into each of those things as one can, even if this means that some of them do not get accomplished in the timeframe desired.  For a college student constantly working on five things at once, and attempting to simply get through them as efficiently as possible, this is a lovely change in lifestyle.

Granted, the less-emphasized value of efficiency could do with a bit more emphasis in certain spheres.  Many infrastructural projects are designed and meticulously planned, only to never be actualized and constructed.  Grocery stores seem somewhat haphazardly organized (and my lack of Arabic is not to blame for this one) and thus the model of the "efficient grocery shop" is out of the question - the grocery store closest to my apartment feels a bit more like a souk (outdoor market often characterized by chaos).  Crossing streets is an effort in patience combined with a small adrenaline rush - there are no crosswalks, and often no real sidewalks, either, so crossing the street in a timely fashion is entirely dependent on timing the stoplights properly, or how quickly one can run across them. 

Efficiency as relates to driving is not, in the slightest, lacking.  Why drive 60 mph when you could go 100 mph?  At an average fill-up cost of 7 dollars, it's not like gas is terribly expensive, so one can certainly afford to floor the accelerator of, say, a white mustang, when the light turns green. What would be the point of signaling to change lanes when you could simply turn your car sideways and drive straight across them?  One American expat who has lived here for awhile now recently told me that using one's turn signal is a dead giveaway that one is a foreigner, most likely western.

But when it comes to interpersonal interaction, efficiency is not the name of the game.  I love that I can sit at my desk in the morning and have a cup of tea and a nice conversation with my colleague without feeling that got to get back to work, I'm not being productive pressure.  We will both get back to work when our topic of conversation is finished or our tea is done.  Phone conversations, even when just a quick question is being asked, take at least 5 minutes.  Yesterday, I was sitting in my office working on a press release (see future post for what I am actually doing in Kuwait) when one of my colleagues in the department came in with another person I had never met before (from a related department).  We introduced ourselves, and the three of us started chatting.  The conversation probably lasted for half an hour, and I felt at the end of it as if I had known the people I was talking to for years, rather than having just been introduced to one of them, and having worked with the other for only a week.

In that conversation, we actually talked about the phenomenon of warmth and hospitality in interpersonal interactions that seems to be present throughout the Middle East.  As an anthropologist, I am skeptical of making generalizations of any kind, lumping cultures together, or even using the word culture (yes, thank you Francois Bayart for spending most of a book reminding me that culture is not a fixed and stagnant entity, but rather ever-changing and adaptive; the book is called The Illusion of Cultural Identity).  What I can seem to generalize, however, is that there is a particular focus in the Middle East on hospitality and on spending time getting to know people that is not as apparent in other regions.  The two people who I was talking with, and who have lived in Kuwait for much longer than I, certainly agreed on this, and insinuated that it is something that the people of this region pride themselves on.  I find it an extraordinarily good quality, and I think it is largely responsible for how happy I've been in Kuwait thus far.  So I'd like to thank all the people I have met so far in Kuwait that have exuded this warmth, hospitality, and kindness when I have met them.  You are all helping to make my experience here a truly fulfilling one.

Until next time, readers!  Hope you're enjoying the blog.  If you are reading it, then I most likely like you and miss you, so again, a warm hello from Kuwait.

Maggie 

Sunday, March 31, 2013

A bit of a recap...

Well!

Dear Reader,

Per usual, my blog posting has fallen a bit behind, or potentially just temporarily by the wayside.  I'm back!  Providing that my internet connectivity remains (and, let's be clear, this is a BIG "if"), I should be back to blogging as usual.  My internet here (and where is here, you are wondering?) seems to only like Downton Abbey and EMS online continuing education classes...and given that this blog fits neither under the category of post-Victorian television drama nor that of emergency airway management, we'll see if the internet gods decide to cooperate.  Hopefully, I'll be blogging better than usual, since usual is not so usual and my time in New Zealand only saw me post 3 entries.  Shameful, really.

Between the last time I posted and this time, many things have happened and many timezones have been crossed.  Perhaps I'll do flashback entries at some point to cover the things that I missed in more detail, but in brief, I finished my studies at Auckland Uni and set out adventuring.  These adventures took me first to Christchurch, which boasted very kind hostel owners, a very nice hostel, and a Pak n' Save with as many gummy bears as an Alice Morrison could dream of, but was otherwise something of a post-apocalyptic industrial hellhole, in my humble opinion (and the opinions of many people who visit....and who live there...but most of them have moved.  Awkward).

After departing said industrialized locale in one very overstuffed 7 person van-with-no-trunk, complete with 7 people and 7 GIANT backpacks (really it just looked like 2 people were in the front seat, since no one else was actually visible under the luggage), myself, and the clown car in which I traveled, made its way to Boyle Village, where we commenced a 6 day trip called the St James Walkway.  It was stunningly beautiful and quite an adventure, and I think we all had way too much fun ;)  We also potentially got a myriad of diseases from the sandflies that kept biting us, and might have gone slightly insane, but this is very much not the point.  Screaming incoherently at sandflies in a 90 degree cabin is just a part of any good camping experience.  But truly, the experience was a wonderful one and I am so grateful to have been given the opportunity and the good health to go when I did, with the people I did.  So thank you to all who made that possible.

A quick jaunt back to Christchurch allowed me to fly to Sydney the next day, where I got a chance to meet up with two friends, and saw one of only 7 Baha'i temples in the world.  What a fantastic day on every level!  That wonderful day culminated in another flight from Sydney to Melbourne, where I spent a week with my aunt and two cousins.  It was a luxurious week in many ways, and allowed me some much needed R&R.  It also gave me the chance to form some new memories with family that I hadn't seen in 10 years, and for that I am so grateful.  Thank you to Susan, Matt, Chloe, Ian, Carolyne and Al (Booth) for hosting me and showing me a wonderful time down under.


To continue this tale, I must introduce my resident alter-ego, the traveling maniac, who will give a special presentation on...

How to get from Melbourne, Australia to Salmiya, Kuwait in 5 days or less:

Step 1: Fly from Melbourne to Auckland.  Meet up with delightful host family for 30 minutes in airport to say goodbye.  Run into the Igoe family (my professor and his family) yet again.  Remain unsurprised and still wanting to be friends with Gladness (my professor's wife).

Step 2: Fly from Auckland to San Francisco.  Sit next to a guy who used to be on the Australian rugby team on one side, and a crazy lady who tries to feed you her vegetarian breakfast sausage on the other.  Get no sleep and curse under your breath for having put the Benadryl in the checked luggage.

Step 3: In 36 hours, do frenzied amounts of laundry, see a few friends, convince your parents that you really are coming back to the North American continent for longer than a day at some point, but that that time is not now.  I really do love you, Mom and Dad, and I'm coming back in June, I promise.  Sleep....a little.

Step 4: Get on a plane to NYC.  Decide, stupidly, to take a supershuttle to your sister's apartment.  Get there 2 hours late.  NEVER AGAIN, SUPERSHUTTLE.  See two more friends, your sister, her friend, and her cats Barney and Marshall (clearly named after the How I Met Your Mother characters).  Cambria, I'm so happy I got to spend that day with you and I can't wait to see you again in June! (And, if your sister is as cool as mine and works in the fashion industry, she might even give you much of a new wardrobe while you are there ;) )

Step 5: Get on a plane to London.  Get to London.  Attempt, and fail, to get to your gate because the security area that your gate is in is closed for the night.  Try again.  Keep trying.  Ask someone and have them tell you to try what you already tried.  Try again.  Then do something completely illogical and have it work, and get, finally, to your gate.

Step 6: Get on a plane to Kuwait City.  Realize you are getting closer to Baghdad than you ever thought you would when you wake up and realize you are flying directly over the top of it.  Long to go to Iran from a distance - but not actually that much of a distance.  Realize, when flying over the gulf (NOT the Persian Gulf, and NOT the Arabian Gulf, just....the gulf), that Kuwait is mostly comprised of desert, because when you look down, you see a city/developed coastline, some suburbs a bit inland, and then....nothing.  No things.  Not one.  Just sand, and probably the occasional camel.

Tah-dah!  You've made it to Kuwait from Australia in 5 days or less.  This concludes this portion of your tour.

Well thanks, resident traveling maniac.  It's been a pleasure hearing from you.  I look forward to seeing you again in June...sort of.

So.....

Now I'm here, in Kuwait!  I've been here a bit over a week and I have LOTS to report, but that's going in a different blog post.  There's your recap!

A warm, and somewhat sandy, hello from Kuwait.

~Maggie


(Here is a lovely picture, not taken by me, of a little gazebo along the waterfront about a 5 minute walk from where I live)

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Top Fives!

Hello Reader!

Two blog posts in one day...wow!  Someone is really looking to procrastinate...

Well, I thought I would do a set of top fives for a variety of experiences in NZ, since they are generally fairly entertaining, and will give you an idea of my day to day living.  Without further ado, here they are!

TOP FIVES

Top Five New Zealand public transport moments:

1.  My bus to Midtown/Auckland CBD (think downtown city area) hits a car.  Bus driver mutters something about Americans looking the wrong way, and takes down my info as a witness.  Does not realize I am American.

2.  Crazy bus drivers at high velocities.  With standard traffic and standard number of stops, it takes me about 25 minutes to get into the city once I get on the bus.  This driver does it during morning rush hour in 15 flat.

3.  That moment when the bus passes change format, and the bus driver doesn't recognize your bus pass.  And asks you where you got it.  And not having gotten it yourself (thank you Dartmouth for providing them), you don't know what to say...

4.  When you are getting onto a ferry going to Russell (old pirate port up north) from the Bay of Islands (north of Auckland, beautiful spot), and once everyone is on the ferry, an announcement is made that the ferry will instead be used for private charter, and that you will instead be getting on a dolphin tour boat, which has agreed to make an unexpected stop to drop you in Russell.  Cue confusion and entertainment.

5.  There is an old fashioned train that runs in and out of Auckland CBD.  Rickety track and all.  Cool, huh?

Side note: my computer ran out of battery right as I was writing this blog post, which I took as a sign to go home.  So I got on the bus.  Cue NZ public transport moment #6...

6.  I get on the 221 express to Mt Albert.  I've never been on the express before, and am thinking that this is cool.  I quickly realize the speed at which this man wants to drive.  I am very much okay with that, as it is friday afternoon and I'd like to get home.  Well apparently, he also has an anger management issue, because he stops the bus in the middle of the road during rush hour traffic, gets out of the bus, and proceeds to quite literally scream at two bikers (who were minding their own business in the bike lane, but apparently were too close to the bus anyway) to "get the $&*^$  # ^*%&   ^**%# out the way of the bus."  Then lays on his horn for a solid minute while gunning it up the hill.

oh NZ public transport....

Top Five meals/foods I've eaten outside of my homestay in NZ 

Given the fact that my host family cooks so well, I've got to do top five meals outside the homestay...since there is a lot of great food in NZ on the whole!

1.  Hotstone Tofu Bibimbap from the Atrium (Asian food court)

For those of you that don't know what bibimbap is, I've attempted to put a picture in.  We'll see if the tech gods shine upon me today.  Bibimbap is a korean dish that basically consists of rice, all sorts of vegetables, some kind of meat/tofu, and an egg on top.  In the hotstone variety, the egg on the top is a raw egg yolk, and the dish that the food is in is hot enough to cause it to make a crackling sound.  As soon as you get it, you puncture the egg yolk on top of the food and quickly stir it in, and the bowl that holds the whole thing cooks it instantly.  The great part about this?  It gives the rice a wonderful buttery taste, and helps it stick together, which makes eating with chopsticks a lot easier.


2.  Pearl Milk Tea

Pearl milk tea is essentially slightly sweetened room temperature milk tea with tapioca pearls at the bottom of it.  You drink it through a really wide straw, so that you can suck up both the pearls and the tea at the same time.  The barley pearl milk tea is one of the excellent varietals of pearl milk tea, which has barley in it as well as tapioca pearls, and basically is like eating delicious milk soaked cereal through a straw.  Believe me, it's delicious.  I had the Jasmine pearl milk tea yesterday though, and that was pretty good too.  Decisions...



3.  Shippey's Fish and Chips (Bay of Islands)

This was simply delicious.  Fish and chips freshly caught that day, fried to perfection, and wrapped in newsprint.  Served in a restaurant that is on a boat in the water, and also a surprisingly good deal. Need I say more?  Here's the link to the website where you can see the menu and photos :)

4.  Hummus

As a general category, hummus is done particularly well in NZ, and I haven't the slightest clue as to why.  In particular, Lisa's brand of hummus is amazing.  Sundried tomato and pesto?  Roasted Kumara with pumpkin seeds?  Lemon and garlic?  I think yes.  
5. Ginger Beer

Ginger beer is a NZ thing through and through, as is Ribena (blackcurrant juice), and both of them are delicious.  Ginger beer is a bit like root beer in the States - it is brewed from ginger and is non-alcoholic (although there are alcoholic variants - I hear they taste about the same).  It is one of the more refreshing things I have tasted in a while.  Delish.



That's all for now!

Cheers,
Maggie


Hosted in Mt Albert

Hello Reader!

It's been awhile since I've written something on here, but I find myself having tons of school work to do yet again, so it is of course time for the honored tradition of blogging when I really should be doing something else!

This particular posting is about the fantastic people that are my host family, and my quietly enjoyable life with them in the western suburbs of Auckland, in a little place known as Mt Albert.  My host parents and my host sister (let's refer to them as M = host mom, D = host dad, S = host sister) are some of the most welcoming people I have met in a long time, and have a fantastic sense of humor, spectacular culinary skills, a beautiful home, and an adorable cat named Kipper.  M works as a manager of an adorable little boutique in town, and D works for a large American company, and recently went to Bangkok on business (cool!).  S is in year 11 (equivalent to 10th grade in the US, but is like 9th grade in the sense of being the first year of "serious" study), and is a cheerful 14 year old who bakes fantastic cupcakes and always brings one to me in my room when I am studying (cue the "awwww" response).  Better yet, she does this about twice a week - she gives me one, gives her mum one, eats one herself, and then takes the rest to her friends at school, simply because she is very kindhearted.  I love spending time with her!  Last night (Valentine's Day here), I went to Silo Park to watch The Princess Bride projected onto the side of a silo (they play a movie every week during the summer) and invited S and her friend to come along.  We had so much fun, although I think she got a little cold with the wind coming off of the water.  Hopefully we will do it again soon!

Anyway, back to the homestay.  I feel so blessed to have ended up with another wonderful family (my first wonderful family being in Paris last spring - Juju et le petit Raph, je dois vous remercie mille fois pour votre hospitalite pendant mon sejour a Paris!).  The first night I got to my homestay, we had a barbecue out on the back deck and chatted until late.  Recent meals have included pesto pasta with kalamata olives and sundried tomatoes, mixed seafood over udon noodles, and chicken satay skewers on the barbecue.  I am in food paradise!  Better yet, D likes to maintain a glass house out in the backyard, which grows green onions and tons of tomatoes!  The tomatoes are by far the best ones I have ever tasted.

But truly, even though this blog post has turned into a rambling about delicious food, I am so grateful to be with a group of caring and loving people, who have welcomed me into their home as if I am family.  Makes me want to host foreign students some day!

Cheers for now!
Maggie

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Waitangi Day

Dear Reader,

Out of all the things that I should be doing right now - sleeping, writing an essay, writing a different essay, researching for another essay - writing a blog post is low on the list.  Which is, of course, why it brings me great pleasure to do so; today's post will offer up a narrative of Waitangi Day here in NZ, celebrated on the 6th of February.

Waitangi Day is not quite like Independence Day in the US, but in some ways it has a similar feel.  It is a day off of work that people often don't truly appreciate the significance of, it is right smack in the middle of the NZ summer, and it is characterized by barbecues, outdoor concerts, beach parties, and apparently cruise ships - there were two of them docked in port today, and the poor fellows found much of Auckland closed for the holiday (which was presumably a rather bewildering discovery on a Wednesday).

The significance of Waitangi Day is that it was the day in 1840 on which Te Tiriti o Waitangi was signed by Maori chiefs and British representatives of the Crown.  I say Te Tiriti o Waitangi (written in Maori) and not The Treaty of Waitangi for two reasons: firstly, Te Tiriti was originally written and signed in Maori, and secondly, The Treaty of Waitangi, the English "version" of Te Tiriti, is in fact a bastardized version of the original document and bears little resemblance to it, nor is it recognized as valid under international law.  Details...(said with heavy sarcasm)...we'll deal with these another time...

On this important national holiday, I decided to make my way to the Waitangi Day Festival at Bastion Point. Bastion Point is east of Auckland between the aquarium and Mission Bay (cute little newly upscale beach town).  Deciding that we wanted to get to the festival early to stake out a good seating site for the concert, myself and three friends arrived at Bastion Point at about 9:45am, and spent a bit wandering around the various shops and food stands set up around the main concert stage, and also took a look at the wharenui (the main building on a marae; for sleeping).  Bastion Point is technically a part of the marae of Ngati Whatua, the iwi (meaning tribe/nation) that used to live in and around Auckland, and the Point is the site of a historic confrontation between the NZ government and the Ngati Whatua culminating in a protest march at the Point in 1978.

After wandering around a bit, and eating a few freshly made mini doughnuts, we wandered down the hill a little to the official entry for the concert area and proceeded to set out our beach towels and do some relaxing in the sun as the first set began to play.  The sun on my face, my giant floppy beach-mom hat, the reggae music playing from the stage, and the friends I was surrounded by made me wonder if I could be living in any more an idyllic moment (the answer was no) and made me forget all about the snowy cold winter that is blasting the States at the moment.

By the time all was said and done, there were 16 Dartmouth students that attended the concert, spread out on a motley variety of beach towels and surrounded by sunscreen.  Some of us, myself included, danced to the music up near the stage for awhile, and got autographs from one of the musical groups.  I was there from 9:45am to 4:15pm, and would have stayed longer if time had allowed.  Food highlights of the day included  the aforementioned doughnuts, chicken kebab wraps and shaved ice type drinks, and the musical highlight for me, at least, was listening, dancing, and singing along to the group 1814's set.  They were amazing!  I've posted some of their song lyrics below and a link to one of their videos.

A fantastic day, in sum.

Next up for blog posts will be: a recap of my day on Waiheke Island, the Bay of Islands trip, and moving in with my AMAZING host family!

Cheers from NZ (prnounced "en-zed" here)
Maggie



1814 Songs

http://www.myspace.com/1814official/music/songs

The link above is a link to some of their top songs - listen and enjoy!

And here is their website: http://www.1814.co.nz/index.html

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Not quite as much roaming...

Hello Everyone!

My apologies - there has not been as much blogging or as much roaming as I had planned for this blog post. The long and the short of it is:

After going to the ER, getting emergency surgery, crashing/coding blue, and resting for a bit, I have learned 3 main things:

1. I live in an EMS (emergency medical services) mindset.  My thought, post crash cart and code blue? I coded? Oops!  Good story though, although it's a bummer: I wanted to give the epi, not get it. Cue dark EMS humor.

2. Surgery makes you feel ancient.  15 minutes of walking around, and I'm thinking, phew, well that was taxing; I think I'll just go lie down.

3.  I have very, very good friends.  You know who you are.

I'm going a little stir crazy but looking forward to be back roaming around Auckland and the rest of New Zealand.  Will be posting more interesting and travel-y related news soon, but just thought I'd give everyone a heads up as to why I've been mysteriously absent from blogging (although if you read my France blog, you probably aren't surprised).

Warmly,
Your friendly (bedridden) traveler

Sunday, January 13, 2013

An Introduction, of sorts

Kia Ora
Salam wa aleykum
Bonjour
Hello

The above are standard greetings in 4 different languages: Maori, Arabic, French, and English, and these greetings represent in their own way the places that I will be living in for the next year.  I say "living in" and not just "traveling to" because I will be in each for 3 months, and while I will be a foreigner in three of the four, I'd like to think that over the course of those three months in each place, I will become more than just a tourist, and the people I meet more than just acquaintances.  So for a formal introduction:

You have reached the first post on the blog, Round The Girdled Earth She Roams.  Where, might you ask, does this potentially poetic and most certainly long title come from?  It is, in fact, a slightly modified line from the Dartmouth alma mater, and I chose it because a). like most Dartmouth students and alums, I have a strong connection to my snowy little haven in the woods, b). because it does, in fact, describe my activities for the next year rather well, and c). because it reminds me of where my home is, and where my core connection lies.  This all being said, I am a member of the Dartmouth Class of 2014, and I won't be back for any extended period of time at Dartmouth until this coming fall, the fall of my senior year there.

So, in the interest of this being an introduction, and you, the reader, being presumably unfamiliar with why exactly I'm jaunting around the globe for a year, I'll do my best to summarize.  I am currently in Auckland, New Zealand on a Dartmouth foreign study program for anthropology and linguistics majors, and am studying here at the University of Auckland (colloquially referred to as Auckland Uni).  After this program finishes, and I spend a week backpacking on the south island of New Zealand with friends, and another week visiting family in Geelong, Australia, I'll return to the States for about 24 hours to switch out my bags and head to Kuwait City for another 3 months, where I am interning at the American University of Kuwait.  Three months there will fly by, after which I've got a few options, but it is likely that I'll return to Paris (a place that I consider to be my European home, and where I studied in the spring of 2012 and did not manage to successfully update a blog - whoops) to carry out original anthropological research (broken up by a quick jaunt back to the States midsummer to photograph a wedding).  My last quarter of the year will be spent where the green grass meets the fall color that tickles the sky: my home and my haven, Dartmouth College.

Whew!  So that's my introduction and that's my year!  I am so excited to be on this journey and I hope that you'll enjoy following along with me (or just looking at pictures every once in awhile).  I've posted the lyrics to Dartmouth's alma mater at the bottom of this post so that you might have a look at where I got the title for this blog.

Many thanks to each and every one of you who has helped make this journey possible!

Warmly,
Maggie Rowland



Dear Old Dartmouth - Dartmouth's Alma Mater

Dear old Dartmouth, give a rouse
For the College on the hill,
For the Lone Pine above her,
And the loyal ones who love her.
Give a rouse, give a rouse, with a will!
For the sons of old Dartmouth,
For the daughters of Dartmouth.
Though ‘round the girdled Earth they roam,
Her spell on them remains.
They have the still North in their hearts,
The hill winds in their veins,
And the granite of New Hampshire
In their muscles and their brains.
And the granite of New Hampshire
In their muscles and their brains.
Dear old Dartmouth, set a watch,
Lest the old traditions fail.
Stand as sister stands by brother.
Dare a deed for the old mother.
Greet the world from the hills with a hail!
For the sons of old Dartmouth,
For the daughters of Dartmouth.
Around the world they keep for her
Their old undying faith.
They have the still North in their soul,
The hill winds in their breath,
And the granite of New Hampshire
Is made part of them ‘til death.
And the granite of New Hampshire
Is made part of them 'til death.